#16
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#17
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Without such full/thorough testing of parts combinations, none of today's gruppos would work near as well as they do, and liabilities would mount. |
#18
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#19
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An I-phone software update six months ago left my Eufy security camera software quite struggling to function properly, and it seems that other competing vendors of software are being similarly "de-standardized", forcing no-doubt-expensive work-arounds. At least KMC seems to always keep pace with gruppo supplier's developments. |
#20
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I’m not as knowledgeable as others on the “wide” standard, but I can help with your question about the extra 5 teeth. In my recent experience a 48t big ring with the 10t cog is plenty of gear for fast road riding, so expect it would be more than enough on a gravel bike. I recently came off a 53/39 crank with an 11-26 cassette to a new bike with AXS and a 48/35 crank; I was worried about having enough gear but it’s been a non-issue.
A 46-33 crank would work fine on a gravel bike unless you plan on pedaling over 35mph a lot. 46x10 is bigger than 50x11. |
#21
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#22
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Yo Doug! The answer is “YES!” I know this from my recent sent up with the Crux.
The Crux came stock with a 1X Rival build, neither of which I wanted. After some diligent research, I saw that the Praxis Zayante GR would clear the chainstays (48/32 instead of the GRX 48/31) The GRX cranks are heavier and not aesthetically appealing. I’m a big fan of Praxis cranks. The only caveat is that you need to run a FORCE Wide FD. Works wonderfully so far. 48/32 in front with a 10-33 in back gives me a **** ton of range and almost a 1/1 ratio. Done and done. |
#23
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This just made my day. Thanks pal |
#24
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I got curious and did some research. I see at least one of the “wide” cranksets uses an 8-bolt spider and 94BCD rings. The only 94BCD rings I found were the 43/30, but what keeps you from putting a 107bcd 8 bolt spider on it and using 46/33 or 48/35 rings? Is the spider offset different for the “wide”? I thought chainline would be different from just the longer spindle.
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#25
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The Sram "Wide" all comes from the spindle and BB spacers, not the spider or rings. |
#26
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Shimano GRX cranks work and they're cheap. Spacing washers will create a normal to road chain line. If wide is desired, they are wide. I use 46/30 to get more range and not lose top gear.
Last edited by Dave; 05-04-2024 at 07:00 AM. |
#27
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10 X 43 = 113 inches at 100rpm that is 54+ Kph. I don't think you are under geared? How fast do you ride?
__________________
Marc Sasso A part of the resin revolution! |
#28
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WIDE only has to do with the NDS arm, but oddly the rings aren't interchangeable between WIDE and standard arms. The spindle is attached to the NDS arm, and on WIDE it is a +5mm wider spindle.
Your cheapest option will be to buy a "normal" Rival DUB crank with 46/33 or 48/35 rings and swap the driveside arm. You retain the clearance, the FD works fine, and it's the least labor. Also gives you the option to return to the 43/30 gearing in only a few minutes should you need to. Allied has all lengths of 46/33 for $100. Competitive Cyclist has some lengths and gearing combos for even less than that. |
#29
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Related-ish. I have Red 12 AXS and started with a 33/46 and 10-33. I have a many descents here in NW Arizona and central Wyoming that are 40+ mph and it was getting annoying when my Garmin would give me the "that's all the gear you have," chime. I ended up getting a Clean deal on a 35/48 with a power meter and I find it more useful for me. I've had my bike at 45 mph on the downhill run on Dynamite to Pima and the drop on Ft McDowell leaving Fountain Hills. The 35-33 low gear is the lowest I've ever had on a road bike. My gravel bike low is a 34-32 with a Shimano drivetrain.
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#30
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When big gears can make you slower
Several posters in this thread have been concerned about having gearing that is not high enough. Presumably this is to prevent "spinning out" on descents. But pedalling on downhills can often result in lower speeds than coasting on downhills. This is because aero drag on downhills can become quite large, and the extra drag when sitting up enough to pedal can be larger than the drag savings in an aero tuck.
In this article on Cycling Weekly, a cyclist had his aero CdA and drag measured in different descending positions. He found that in his standard road position, he had 208 W of aero drag at 35 kph (21.7 mph), and in his best aero tuck postion he had only 137 W of aero drag at 35 kph. Aero drag increases with the cube of speed, so at 70 kph (43.4 mph) the drag would be 8 times higher. So in his standard road position there would be 1,664 W of aero drag at 70 kph, but only 1,096 W in the aero tuck at the same speed, a difference of 568 W. So on a descent where he could coast in an aero tuck at 70 kph, he would have to pedal at 568 W to go the same speed in a standard road position. Not many people can put out this much power for any length of time. The above example isn't just theoretical. I find that on fast descents I regularly pass other cyclists who are pedaling furiously while I am coasting in a tight tuck. As an extreme demonstration of this, this web page an analysis of a video which shows a fixed gear rider descending with a group of cyclists on geared bikes. The fixed gear rider finds himself undergeared and unable to stay with the geared riders on a descent. So he unclips and assumes a "Superman" aero position, and quickly accelerates ahead of the geared riders. The geared riders try to sprint up to him, but are unable to as the coasting "Superman" rider rides away from them. The Rival AXS group has a top gear of 43-10, which is roughly equivalent to a 52-12. That's about the biggest gear I ever use, and while I'm rarely the first to the top of a hill, I'm always fastest going down the other side (and at 148 lb I'm not a big guy). |
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