Innicycle threaded -> threadless conversion headset

[ap_az]

I did some searching here and saw a few mentions, but not much in terms of a long-term review or recommendation.

Does anyone here have experience with the Innicycle 1" threaded -> 1 1/8" threadless conversion headset?

https://www.innicycle.com/

I'm trying to figure out what to for the cockpit of a frameset (Atlanta #2) that I'm building up. It's a steel fork with a 1" threaded steerer tube. Since I have no headset or stem on hand my options are wide open.

Since I'm considering doing the bike as a resto-mod I'm seriously considering going with a modern bar/stem combo. The innicycle seems perfect for this application and with the right stem could give me a very clean look.

Has anyone here used the innicycle solution and, if so, how did it work out?

My other option is to look into having a new steerer tube "grafted" onto the existing fork which would allow me to run a traditional threadless headseat.

[deluz]

I have one and like it.
When I got my Mercian I looked at what was available there were some Campy headsets with loose bearings. I wanted to use a 1-1/8 stem and 31.8 bars so the Innicycle seemed like the logical choice. It it well made, saves a little bit of weight and has sealed bearings. Easy to use once installed. I have not cut the extension tube because there is a good chance I will be selling this bike later this year.

[MikeD]

Save yourself a lot of money and just buy a quill adapter.

[ap_az]

Originally Posted by MikeD

Save yourself a lot of money and just buy a quill adapter.

Most of the quill adapters I've seen don't look great and only really work visually if the stem is sitting right on top of the headset. In order to get the bar position right that would mean a zero or even positive rise stem and that's not where I want to go with this build.

Cost isn't an issue and I'm going to need to buy a headset in order to build the bike so $125 for the innicycle probably ends up being cheaper anyways.

[fried bake]

Originally Posted by ap_az

Most of the quill adapters I've seen don't look great and only really work visually if the stem is sitting right on top of the headset. In order to get the bar position right that would mean a zero or even positive rise stem and that's not where I want to go with this build.

Cost isn't an issue and I'm going to need to buy a headset in order to build the bike so $125 for the innicycle probably ends up being cheaper anyways.

This addresses my question about a quill adapter. Old school geo defaulted to low stack height head tube lengths so this is the way forward. Timely and helpful information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MikeD]

One reason I wouldn't use this product is that it uses a cone instead of a wedge. Cones can cause the steerer tube to bulge.

From https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/..._wedge_v_cone/ , but you can find this elsewhere. I remember issues with Cinelli stems BITD, if memory serves me correctly.

Cone quill stems are the older system and functionally inferior to a wedge system in every way.

the cone applies a lot of force over a small area on the steerer (basically a ring). this causes the steerer tube to deform over time. nce this has happened you can't adjust the height by small amounts in this area because it will always tend to go back to the weidend diameter when tightening. the cone quill can also work itself into the stem shaft given the steerer has expanded enough making removal a true pita.

this doesn't happen on a wedge since the force is spread over a much larger area

the steerer tube inner diameter is slightly wider than the stem outer diameter:

on a cone wedge the only surface the stem makes contact with the steerer tube is the small ring mentioned earlier. the stem is "centered" in the steerer tube and there are technically small gaps everywhere else. when applying force to the bars the stem will bend accordingly every time.

on a wedge system you have a line shaped contact area equal to the biggest height of the cone (usually pointed towards the front) AND on the opposite side a line shaped contact area equal to the inserted length of the shaft (usually pointed towards the rear).

when you now apply forwards or backwards pressure the stem will move much less since the effective lever length is much shorter (ending at the top of the steerer and not at the quill area) and when you move sideways the shaft can't just move sideways, it also has to move forward because its standard position is at the back of the steerer.

a wedge can be made out of aluminium and a quill can't without sacrificing durability. therefore a wedge stem can be made lighter.

OVERALL a wedge stem doesn't destroy your steerer over time, is stiffer, easier to adjust and can be lighter.

the only way a cone quill is superior is ease of manufacturing: countersink stem shaft, cut two compression slots into the shaft, done. (wedge requires a jig to make the cut straight and at the exact angle required)

None of my quill stems or adapters have a cone, and I wouldn't use one that does.

[ap_az]

Right... but... this isn't a stem. It's a headset.

Unlike a stem, the cone isn't bearing any weight. The preload is set by tightening the upper steerer part of the headset onto the fork's threads. That part bears the load and transfers it to the fork via the threads. The cone is used simply to keep that part of the headset from loosening up and backing out.

It's a very interesting design and, in theory, should be far more durable and secure than a threaded headset with a quill stem since the bar load isn't being borne by the friction fit of the quill's clamping mechanism (be it a cone or wedge).

I think that the larger issue with cones BITD was the fact that no one ever bothered to apply reasonable torque. They just tightened the crap out of it and each time tightened it a little more. A wedge is more forgiving in this regard as it puts pressure on the steerer tube in a different way.

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by ap_az

Right... but... this isn't a stem. It's a headset.

Unlike a stem, the cone isn't bearing any weight. The preload is set by tightening the upper steerer part of the headset onto the fork's threads. That part bears the load and transfers it to the fork via the threads. The cone is used simply to keep that part of the headset from loosening up and backing out.

It's a very interesting design and, in theory, should be far more durable and secure than a threaded headset with a quill stem since the bar load isn't being borne by the friction fit of the quill's clamping mechanism (be it a cone or wedge).

I think that the larger issue with cones BITD was the fact that no one ever bothered to apply reasonable torque. They just tightened the crap out of it and each time tightened it a little more. A wedge is more forgiving in this regard as it puts pressure on the steerer tube in a different way.

The cone is keeping the stem from twisting, just like a quill stem does. See cross section. As such, I think it needs to be torqued just as much as a regular quill stem to prevent twisting. The video says to not exceed 15 NM, which is 133 in lbs, but that's a lot.

[mstateglfr]

Originally Posted by ap_az

Has anyone here used the innicycle solution and, if so, how did it work out?

I have one and it's been on 2 different bikes. It's on my current backup road bike right now that also doubles as my zwift bike in cold weather.

Love it. Super easy to install, it uses significantly better parts than a typical threaded headset, and it expands the stem options.
My spacers are a mix of traditional and innicycle spacers. The innicycle spacers have a rubber seal on the inside to keep them in place.

Really neat bit of technology overall and it's improved the look and usability of that frame.

[elvisthehorse]

Can you post bottom and top, stack height. I watched the video's, And the video wants you to pull the original headset and then measure.

I rather do the math to see if it will work with my threaded fork.

Thank yo if you if you can help

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by elvisthehorse

Can you post bottom and top, stack height. I watched the video's, And the video wants you to pull the original headset and then measure.

I rather do the math to see if it will work with my threaded fork.

Thank yo if you if you can help

You can message the seller. Hes pretty responsive... At least he used to be!

[CSI Man]

Originally Posted by ap_az

Most of the quill adapters I've seen don't look great and only really work visually if the stem is sitting right on top of the headset. In order to get the bar position right that would mean a zero or even positive rise stem and that's not where I want to go with this build.

Cost isn't an issue and I'm going to need to buy a headset in order to build the bike so $125 for the innicycle probably ends up being cheaper anyways.

I use a quill adapter on my CSI with spacers covering the quill. It looks just like a regular 1-1/8 setup. Shims are required to keep the spacers centered.